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Fwd: Re: (erielack) Polly S paint



Note: forwarded message attached.
ï

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	I always thin out that paint with denatured ALCOhol.
The alcohol is essentially the " Vehicle " to move the
pigment and evaporates off quickly and with less
"Pooling" around detail. Using water, it takes alot
longer for the paint to dry for a second coat and
becomes runny if applied to quickly. 

NOTE , NOTE < NOTE....... Alcohol is flamable so I use
a spray booth I made with a bathroom fan and hose the
vents to the outside of the house.  A fellow modeler
was using an old formula from a 1950's MR about making
"WET" water with alclhol and water and dishsoap. And
in a fit of motivation ballasted two yards and 50 feet
of main line. Got higher than a kite from the fumes (
The hangover lasted a week) and as the blueflame of
ignition set off by the water heater rolled towards
him ans set half his layout on fire he soiled himself.

 TIP BELOW :  Discaimer.. this is an ( IMHO thing) so
take it for what it's worth and everyone has their own
system for achieving the same results and knowone is
correct or wrong.


1. What works for me . If spraying with a direct light
shining on the piece , hold it so you can see the
reflection on it as you spray. The spray should be
light and just slightly glossy from the liquid vehicle
in the paint and should fade to dullness somewhat
quickly. If it stays that wet glossy look for a while
you're putting to much paint on in one pass and nozzle
it down. I never shoot at under 35 PSI with a PAcshe (
is that French? ) VL airbrush except for weathering.

2. And this does apply to everyone. There is a primal
urge when painting to get one coat coverage on the
first pass  like shown when painting real locomotives
with ImRON or automobiles. Resist this at all costs.
Yes , it is very time consuming but your model will
thank you in in a paint job that is smooth and even
and better detail retention and easier to decal. Lots
and Lots and lots of light coats. and build up the
color base slowly.

Rich Young 

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