Re: (erielack) 2 Modeling Questions--paint stripper, primer

["David Green" <davandli_@_frontiernet.net>]

Howard,

Thanks for the advice.  However, I have had my two shells sitting in Pine Sol for a week, with very little results.  I am now using a cleaning product called "Greased Lightning" on one shell that seemed to work on some older Bachmann stuff I had.  I have the other shell under a coat of "Easy Lift Off" that someone else suggested.  We'll see what happens..

- - Dave Green ELHS #1366
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Hhaines_@_aol.com 
  To: davandli_@_frontiernet.net ; erielack@lists.railfan.net 
  Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 6:28 PM
  Subject: Re: (erielack) 2 Modeling Questions--paint stripper, primer


  In a message dated 2/26/2005 8:11:56 AM Mountain Standard Time, davandli_@_frontiernet.net writes:


    Question #1:  Can anybody recommend a good paint stripper for Bachmann
    Spectrum equipment?


  Dear Dave:

  On Bachmann and Kato stuff I have used the original Pine-Sol Brand Cleaner, by The Clorox Company.  I soaked the car shells in an upright (old Sanka 12-inches high, 3.5-inches inside diameter or more) glass jar for a time (like 15 minutes, then 30 or more with KATO) with a plastic wrap as a light cover (so it did not stink us out of the house).  Stubborn paint near the rivet lines was removed with a bit of scrubbing with a tooth brush.  A friend of mine uses a 9x11x2-inch Pyrex bake dish, but he does several cars at once, and covers it with plastic wrap.

  After the first time, I used rubber gloves on my hands so I didn't smell like Pine-Sol for the next week.   After it has removed the paint, let the jar sit (covered) for a day or so.  The stripped paint settles to the bottom.  You can either carefully decant the Pine-Sol back into its original container and throw out the "bottoms with paint," or use a coffee filter to screen the bottoms.    

  After the paint is removed, I wash the models with dishwashing soap and water.  I then use some latex gloves and "quick dry" them with an application of rubbing alcohol to remove prints, and let them air-dry before I spray paint prime them. I like to use white if I need to change a base color (like putting EL yellow on the nose of a black plastic loco shell).

  I think I read in one of the model magazines (or on this list) to use Plasti-kote sandable primer, a fast-dry lacquer primer.  I think it was in RMC on that Hal Carsten's doodle bug.  That is the primer I have used with consistently good results remembering to shake the can well (2 to 5 minutes, like the news between commercials).  I spray a light coat of primer while holding the model 12-24 inches away from the can, and always moving (the model or the can). I spray them outside when it is at least  45F (which really limits it the months out here--I think NJ would have to duck raindrops or snowflakes) and have some light to see with.  If you are really blind, the light doesn't matter--just spray until one side or the other of your hand is damp-cool, and then reverse direction. 

  After the first light coat, I look to see if there are any "dings" in the finish that need additional sanding.  A blind guy modeling in HO sometimes needs that extra contrast from a new coat of primer to see any "marks" or the cat hair left from a friendly rubbing up against the model.  Then I sand out imperfections, and apply another light coat.  

  (I have been told a cat's whisker is useful to simulate an HO-scale locomotive whip antenna, but I rarely find a discarded whisker. Unlike the guy who uses them, I don't watch my cats that close.  He also has more cats, hence, more whiskers to fall out. Besides, I do not recall seeing EL locomotives with whip antennae.)  

  After I have an even coat or two, I put the models aside to dry--for at least a day, or a week, but lately more like a six of months.

  I have then used Accupaint or Floquil, and a number of other brands and types (lacquer, acrylic latex, or whatever that ink-base is called).  

  Also, Chameleon paint stripper works, but I have found it more expensive and less multi-purpose than the Pine-Sol.  And I've never melted anything in Pine-Sol, although I would recommend that you get a second bottle if the other someone in the house uses it for floors and walls with--just mark yours "MODELS" so something so they don't use it and complain that "something is floating in this."   (I have found it on sale at Wal-Mart once or twice a year.)

  I have done an entire "Alaska RR North Star" (yeah, I know, then Walthers comes out with one) and a number of Erie Limited cars (so when is Walthers' or Branchline going to come out with an Erie Limited) with this method.  

  However, for some of the Bachmann Spectrum heavyweights in Santa Fe green color, I (delicately) used non-acetone finger nail polish remover to take off the lettering, and then added "Erie" lettering from Champ.

  Howard Haines
  ELHS Member

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End of EL List Daily V3 #1581
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