Re: (erielack) Dunmore Caboose

["James Harr" <bnchmark_@_eclipse.net>]

Jim and list; please don't take this wrong, but boy, some guys like to live
dangerously! I would highly recommend NOT using any type of super glue to
assemble a painted, and especially a glazed model (one with window material
already mounted). Not only do you run the risk of the encounter that Jim
speaks of, but you also run the risk of "fogging" your model. As super glues
cure, they emit fumes that can create a white 'haze' or 'fog', especially on
clear parts. Using a fresh bottle of glue will help, as it seems that the
older the glue is, the worse the fogging.

My advice is to use either epoxy, or white glue (Elmers or Sobo), or, you
can use Micro Flat, made by Micro Scale. This stuff is great for gluing
decorated parts, as it dries relatively flat, but stays flexible (in other
words, the parts won't shear off). You can use Micro Gloss for gluing
glazing, it dries clear gloss and doesn't show up that bad if you get some
on the visible portion of your glazing.

Finally, and again I mean no disrespect to Jim, but be very careful of super
glue accelerators - Perhaps the Jet brand will not affect paint, but some
brands will; they will melt styrene too. If you have to use accelerator,
squirt it into a bottle cap and use a toothpick or a cheap brush to apply
it, the same way you should apply the superglue in the first place.

As for cutting photo-etched parts from their frets, Paul's suggestion is
spot-on, you can also use old, but sharp, fingernail scissors, or you can
just use an X-Acto chisel blade, on top of a piece of HARD plastic, like
acrylic. Don't use wood, or styrene, the etched parts will bend. Come
straight down, at 90 degrees, and snip the runners, but be sure to keep a
finger on the parts, they like to fly!

One final note, keep a bottle of Acetone, or fingernail polish remover
(active ingredient? Acetone...) or one of the unglue products handy, and
wear eye protection! Super glue in the eye is a very nasty thing! Take my
word for it!

Sorry everyone for running on... Best of luck!

Jim Harr



From: James G Flynn <jimbatt1_@_juno.com>
Subject: Re: (erielack) Dunmore Caboose

        Michael, MAN,Oh, MAN  !!!!

        Whatever you do, pay attention to the suggestion in the
directions to use a medium speed setting CA cement.
        I just had a conversation with Joe Lofland about ordering another
kit.  I was going great, got to the point of attaching the roofs.  (After
paint and decals)  It looked great !  Then some of the really fast CA ran
out from under part of one of the roofs, got between my finger and the
car body, and the rest, as they say, is history.
        I used INSTANT JET on the first kit.  Switched to SUPER JET for
the other ones.  MUCH BETTER !!!!
        The Instant Jet is good for SOME things IF YOU HAVE THE PART
EXACTLY WHERE YOU WANT IT AND IF YOU HAVE REALLY GOOD CONTROL OVER HOW
MUCH ADHESIVE IS GOING TO FLOW, AND WHERE.  For the biggest part of the
project, though, use the Super Jet.  I would also recommend that you buy
a bottle of JET SET.  It's an accelerant and will set the medium speed CA
instantly after every thing is in place.  One little spray at the glue
joint after the Super Jet and part is attached, and it will set up like
the Instant Jet.  You get the benefit of a little more working time until
you have it just right.  Then, poof, and it's set.  I'm told that the
slower setting stuff make for a little stronger joint too, over the
instant stuff.  The Jet Set will also work with any brand of CA adhesive,
not just the Jet products.  It does not harm the resin.  And I even used
it sparingly (one light pump) when I had to, over the paint.  No Problem
!  Also, if you can find Jet Set with a pump sprayer, and if you like it,
 keep the sprayer when the bottle is empty.  I'm told that now the Jet
Set is being sold without the pump.  You may need the pump again.
        Hope this helps

        Jim Flynn
        ELHS # 2598

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